The Campagnolo Ultra-Torque Bottom Bracket [paid link] is a highly regarded system known for its efficiency, stiffness, and minimal weight. Unlike cable-driven components such as derailleurs or brakes, the Ultra-Torque system itself does not use cables. However, confusion may arise due to internal cable routing around or through the bottom bracket shell, which impacts drivetrain and shifting performance.
This guide focuses on replacing derailleur or brake cables routed through frames equipped with the Ultra-Torque Bottom Bracket [paid link], and includes important considerations when the bottom bracket must be removed or accessed during this process. Replacing these cables is essential for maintaining smooth shifting and braking, especially as friction and contamination can build up over time.
Tools Required
- 5mm and 10mm Allen keys [paid link]
- Cable cutters
- Pick tool or bent spoke (for cable fishing)
- Torque wrench [paid link]
- Campagnolo Ultra-Torque BB removal tool
- Campagnolo Crank bolt tool
- Fresh inner cables
- Cable housing (if required)
- Frame-specific grommets or guides (if applicable)
- Light grease and carbon paste (as needed)
Understanding Internal Cable Routing with Ultra-Torque BB
The Ultra-Torque system features a central Hirth joint that connects both crank arms inside the bottom bracket shell. Internal routing for mechanical derailleurs often passes through or near this space. On many modern frames, especially carbon ones, internal cables may run beneath a guide under the BB shell or inside molded cable sleeves.
To replace these cables correctly, it’s often necessary to remove the crankset and, in some cases, the bottom bracket cups. This grants full access to the internal guide system and avoids cable abrasion during re-routing.
Crankset Removal for Cable Access
Begin by removing the left-hand crank arm. Use a 10mm Allen key to unscrew the central fixing bolt. Due to the Hirth joint’s self-extracting nature, the crank arm will release as you loosen the bolt. With the left arm off, rotate and slide the drive-side arm and spindle through the BB shell.
Ensure no undue force is applied to the bearings, and inspect the Hirth joint for wear or corrosion.
This step reveals the cable passage beneath the BB shell or allows access to internal sleeves within the down tube and chainstay.
Routing and Replacing the Cables
Once the crank is removed:
- Extract old cables from shifters through the housing. Mark routing paths if unclear.
- Use a pick tool or cable fishing tool to guide the new cable through the internal routing. Frames with molded sleeves simplify this process; otherwise, patience is required.
- Pay close attention to sharp bends near the BB shell, especially if the housing runs under the BB guide. Any snagging or misalignment can dramatically increase friction.
- Ensure housing ends are square and clean, with no frayed liners. Use proper frame grommets to prevent movement and water ingress.
- Once both cables are through, verify smooth operation by moving the levers and checking tension.
Reinstallation of the Crankset and BB Considerations
Before reinstalling the Ultra-Torque crank:
- Clean the Hirth joint and spindle using a clean rag and degreaser.
- Apply a light layer of grease or Campagnolo-specified anti-seize compound to the joint and spindle.
- Reinsert the drive-side arm and torque the left crank bolt to 42–60 Nm using a calibrated torque wrench [paid link].
Ensure no cables are pinched during this step. If a BB shell cable guide is present, secure it properly to prevent cable rubbing.
Performance Tips and Final Checks
After installation:
- Fine-tune cable tension using barrel adjusters. Campagnolo levers are sensitive to cable slack, so exact tension ensures crisp shifts.
- Check for drag or resistance. If cables feel sluggish, reassess the routing for tight bends or housing pinch points.
- Apply a light chain lubricant and test the drivetrain under load.
A proper cable replacement can significantly improve shifting performance, especially when internally routed through frames using the Ultra-Torque BB system.
When the Bottom Bracket Must Be Removed
In older frames or certain carbon designs, cables may run inside a BB sleeve that obstructs routing unless the cups are removed. In this case:
- Use the Campagnolo Ultra-Torque BB cup tool to unscrew both cups.
- Ensure cups are reinstalled with proper torque (35–40 Nm) and frame-facing surfaces are prepped with appropriate compounds—carbon paste for carbon frames or anti-seize for alloy shells.
Always inspect BB bearings for smoothness during removal. Grit or pitting can signal the need for replacement.
Preventing Future Cable Routing Issues
To extend cable life and avoid future disassembly:
- Use PTFE-coated or polymer-coated cables for smoother operation and longevity.
- Install sealed housing ferrules to reduce contamination.
- Check annually for friction or wear—more frequently in wet or gritty riding conditions.
If possible, consider upgrading to electronic drivetrains if you frequently deal with internal routing issues. This eliminates cables entirely and simplifies maintenance.
FAQs
1. Does the Ultra-Torque bottom bracket [paid link] contain cables inside the unit itself?
No, the Ultra-Torque system does not use cables. However, cables may be routed through or near the BB shell and require crank removal for access.
2. Do I always need to remove the crankset to change cables on a bike with Ultra-Torque?
Not always. But if the frame routes cables through the BB shell, crank removal is often necessary to avoid damaging the new cables.
3. Can I use regular cables with Ultra-Torque setups?
Yes. The Ultra-Torque crank system is compatible with all standard derailleur and brake cables, assuming your drivetrain is mechanical.
4. What kind of lubrication should I use when reinstalling the crank spindle?
Use high-quality grease or the specific Campagnolo anti-seize compound to prevent creaking and corrosion at the Hirth joint.
5. Are there frame types where bottom bracket removal is mandatory for cable routing?
Yes. Some carbon frames with molded sleeves or cable tunnels running inside the BB area require BB cup removal for cable replacement.
6. Can poor cable routing affect shifting performance even if the bottom bracket is perfect?
Absolutely. Cable friction and poor routing are among the most common causes of sluggish shifting, especially in bikes with internal routing.
Conclusion
Replacing cables on a bike equipped with the Campagnolo Ultra-Torque Bottom Bracket demands precision, patience, and an understanding of how internal routing interacts with the BB area. While the BB system itself remains untouched during routine cable replacements, the crankset often needs to be removed to access crucial routing paths.
By following the correct procedures, ensuring smooth cable runs, and reassembling with proper torque specs, riders can restore optimal drivetrain performance and prevent premature wear. With proper tools and attention to detail, even complex internal cable jobs become manageable and rewarding.