The SRAM GXP [paid link] bottom bracket system is popular among road cyclists for its stiffness, simplicity, and weight savings. However, incorrect installation or poor maintenance can lead to persistent creaks, premature bearing wear, or even damage to your frame or crankset. Understanding the most common mistakes users make with the GXP [paid link] interface—and how to avoid them—will help keep your drivetrain smooth, quiet, and efficient.
Incorrect Spacer Orientation and Placement
One of the most frequently overlooked issues during SRAM GXP [paid link] bottom bracket installation is the misplacement of spacers. Unlike other bottom bracket standards, the GXP system is asymmetric in how it interfaces with the crank spindle. The drive side features a 24mm diameter spindle that tapers down to 22mm on the non-drive side.
When installing on a standard BSA or PF frame, it’s critical to understand that spacers only go on the drive side for road setups. Placing any spacers on the non-drive side can prevent proper compression of the crank arms, which may result in side-to-side play, bearing overload, or uneven wear.
Always reference the official GXP documentation or your frame’s spec sheet to determine the correct spacer stack. A wrong setup here could easily lead to creaking or long-term damage to the crankarm interface.
Overtightening the Non-Drive Crank Arm
The GXP crank arm design relies on preload being applied by tightening the non-drive side crank bolt against the taper interface. Overzealous torque here is a common mistake. It may seem like more torque ensures a secure fit, but excessive force risks:
- Crushing the bearing seal.
- Deforming the aluminum interface.
- Leading to binding or drag when spinning the cranks.
The non-drive side bolt should always be torqued to the manufacturer’s spec of 48–54 Nm using a calibrated torque wrench [paid link]. Any deviation, particularly overtightening, can introduce performance degradation and long-term reliability issues.
Neglecting to Use the Wave Washer or Preload Ring (Where Applicable)
Some GXP cranksets use a wave washer system on the non-drive side to preload the bearings correctly. Omitting this component—either due to forgetfulness or assuming it’s non-essential—can cause axial movement during riding.
In setups where a preload adjuster ring is used (mostly on higher-end SRAM cranksets), improper tensioning is another issue. Riders frequently either leave the ring too loose or over-tighten it, leading to increased bearing friction or crank play.
These small, seemingly insignificant components play a big role in ensuring long-term bearing health and crank stability.
Failing to Grease Contact Surfaces During Installation
The GXP system relies heavily on metal-to-metal interfaces: spindle to bearing, crank arm to spindle, and bearing to bottom bracket shell. Skipping grease application during installation is a mistake that can quickly turn into creaking nightmares or even galvanic corrosion.
Apply high-quality waterproof grease to:
- The spindle interface (particularly at the step-down taper).
- The crank arm splines.
- Inside the bearing races.
- The threads of the bottom bracket cups (in threaded systems).
This step ensures smooth installation, prevents moisture ingress, and helps maintain torque settings over time.
Installing a GXP Crank in a Non-Compatible Bottom Bracket Shell
Though adapters exist, trying to shoehorn a SRAM GXP crank into a non-compatible bottom bracket—like a BB30 or BB86—without proper conversion kits is a common but costly error.
The GXP system was designed for a specific 68mm BSA or PressFit configuration with precise bearing spacing. Using cheap adapters or forcing the crank into an ill-suited shell can:
- Cause misalignment.
- Destroy bearings prematurely.
- Damage the frame or spindle.
When working with alternative bottom bracket standards, only use high-quality adapters specifically designed for SRAM GXP, and follow the manufacturer’s torque and setup recommendations exactly.
Ignoring Bearing Wear Signs and Delaying Replacement
Bearings are the most stressed component in the GXP system. Yet many riders ignore tell-tale signs like gritty rotation, lateral play, or a grinding sound. Continuing to ride under these conditions leads to:
- Damaged crank spindle surfaces.
- Ovalized bottom bracket cups or shell.
- Total crankset failure in extreme cases.
Routine checks every 2,000–3,000 km and immediate replacement of suspect bearings help avoid catastrophic failures.
Using Improper Tools for Removal and Installation
Using adjustable wrenches or generic sockets to remove or install GXP bottom brackets is risky. It’s easy to slip and damage the bottom bracket cups, the threads in the frame, or the crank spindle. Always use SRAM-approved bottom bracket tools to ensure:
- Proper torque application.
- Secure installation without rounding edges.
- Preventing accidental cross-threading.
Improvising with tools can cost far more in damage than investing in the proper equipment from the start.
Failure to Check Frame Shell Facing and Tolerances
A bottom bracket is only as reliable as the surface it mates with. Many GXP installation issues can be traced back to a bottom bracket shell that hasn’t been properly faced or measured.
Common problems include:
- Bearing misalignment from uneven shell faces.
- Creaking caused by a warped or oversized shell.
- Accelerated bearing wear due to poor fitment.
Before any GXP installation, inspect and face the bottom bracket shell if needed. Measure internal diameters for press-fit systems to confirm compatibility. Taking this step ensures your crankset will spin freely and quietly for thousands of kilometers.
Conclusion
While SRAM GXP is a robust and performance-driven bottom bracket system, overlooking key installation and maintenance steps can compromise its longevity and performance. From spacer placement to torque specs and proper greasing, every detail counts. By avoiding these costly mistakes, you’ll extend the life of your GXP setup, eliminate unwanted noises, and maintain efficient power transfer on every ride.